Raffaele Ascione: New Beginnings (for 1Granary)

German-born womenswear designer, Raffaele Ascione, graduated from the Central Saint Martins MA Fashion just three years ago. Immediately after leaving college he set up an eponymous label which, with its intricate craftsmanship and darkly beautiful aesthetic, has been extremely well received by the fashion industry. Now after four seasons with his own brand, Ascione is closing the label to take on a full time position as a Senior Designer at Antonio Berardi. An incredible opportunity for a young designer, he takes time out of his preparations to move to Milan to talk to 1Granary about his new appointment, the success of his own designs and how his time at Saint Martins helped him get to where he is now.

Via Stampmag

 You’ve just been appointed Senior Designer at Antonio Berardi, how did that come about?

I had to do two interviews to get the job. I had my first interview with Sophia (the editor from Ten) because she’s Antonio’s stylist. I was like ‘Oh my god I’ve loved this woman for so many years’. I had my first interview with her, I had loved her work for so many years so I was really intimidated at the start but she was so nice and so calming and we had such a laugh. Literally a week later she was like, ‘I really want you to meet Antonio, he’s in London.’ I met him and his partner and they were the nicest people ever, really human, no fashion world shit. When I’m working on my team there is no diva behaviour because it’s not necessary and it was the same there. They gave me a preview of the collection and you could see Antonio was really excited. When I left there I was like ‘I want to have this job!’ and five days later I got the email. It went so fast, it was literally crazy. After the MA I had nine interviews with big brands and always got to final stages and then they would say, ‘No…we can’t shape you, your style is too advanced.’

Being told you’re too good to work somewhere?! That’s ridiculous.

Three times I was told that. They kept saying, ‘We’d rather have a BA student so we can shape them’ and I was like ‘I have done the fucking MA at Saint Martins!’ You know? I didn’t tell my parents at all about the two Berardi interviews because after the MA every time I had an interview I didn’t get the job. In fact I told barely anybody and then when I got the job I rang them, and my mum obviously cried. My dad was like ‘I’m really proud son! Now you have to work your way up!’ and I was like ‘No Dad, it’s a senior designer position. I am up.’ He didn’t understand, he kept asking, ‘It’s not interning anymore?’ When he realised he was super happy. Obviously they’re happy I’m going back to Italy because it’s so near to Germany so they can come visit me really easily. 

Tell us about being offered the job at Antonio Berardi! Was there lots of celebrating?

I remember it was a Saturday when I found out I’d got the job and I was shattered from all the interviews and finishing the collection and look book. My friends told me to come to their house for a sleepover - I was like perfect. My friend came and picked me up and I looked like SHIT. So we went over to his house and it was really tidy and quiet. His flatmate was like, ‘Honey I’m in the kitchen having a cigarette, come on in’ and when I got there there were thirty five people in the kitchen shouting ‘Surprise! Congratulations!’ They had a massive surprise party for me. Everybody was there; my friends from my MA and people I hadn’t seen in a long time but were really good friends of mine. So it was really nice and we partied till like ten AM. 

The Antonio Berardi brand is very beautiful, is that what drew you to it? 

So beautiful. I remember as a fashion student I dressed two of Antonio Berardi’s shows and the richness and the embroideries and the mix of materials were just incredible. When I had my interview Antonio told me, ‘I remember your MA show, for us it was the most beautiful collection in the show even though you were a really strong year.’ Then I saw the new collection and there was a great mix of material, this sexy sporty silhouette with lots of lace and embellishment. It’s all the things I love and adore so I can’t wait to get stuck in it. 

What will happen to your own label now that you are working at Antonio Berardi?

I decided to close the brand as soon as the job offer came. Buyers were contacting me saying, ‘I’ve just seen your Autumn/Winter clothes, are you going to be in the showroom?’ and I was like ‘No, I’m not selling this season because it’s not possible to run the label and do a full time job’. I thought I’m going to be taking this job on and it’s a big role. I need to be 100% dedicated to that now but who knows in a couple of years time it I may come back to do my own thing.’ 

We loved your Autumn/Winter ’13 collection!

I know, I’m really happy, it was good. It’s such a good collection for my portfolio. If I need to apply for a new job or sponsorship again in the future it’s a great collection to have.

Are you sad that you can’t sell it? 

Well most of the press pieces have sold! And the requests are there, in a way it’s sad but in another way it’s OK. It’s good! 

Of course we’re still in Spring now, how do you think your SS13 collection compares to your AW13?

Loads of people liked that collection, but a lot of people really didn’t. They thought I’d abandoned my natural dark side and were surprised I wasn’t mixing materials just because the clothes are mostly all one colour. Most of the garments actually have five or six different materials in them. The embellishments are still happening but because it’s all in one colour means you don’t see it straight away. A lot of work had gone in to it. 

With the Autumn/Winter collection I was like ‘Fuck this I’m going back to what I’m good at and what I really enjoy the most.’ That’s why all the lace work is ten times more advanced, we did our own fabric. All the lace has been hand cut and it’s been bonded on top of tweed. This season we only worked with menswear patterns because we only wanted this really structured tailored look for some of the pieces. I found this vintage menswear jumper that I really liked, we cut it apart and I drafted a new pattern from it. 

It’s really tough starting your own line as a young fashion designer, what got you through when things were difficult?

You just…do it. I have to be really honest. I have amazing friends who were so great whenever I needed help. Brilliant people like Claire, who always designed my shoes, and Ony at IMG who helps me out with the models. Then I have Paul and Ben who are the graphics boys, they do my website and my invites. I just don’t have the time to do it myself! A lot of people contacted me soon after the MA, they were people who really liked my work and just want to work with you for free. I am very blessed. 

What advice would you give to the students who have just graduated from the MA Fashion?

Do your portfolio really really well. I would almost say to approach your portfolio in a traditional way. I kept my portfolio work very traditional in a portfolio pocket with sleeves and stuff. Whenever I saw the agencies in London or Paris they were like, ‘It’s so nice to see a portfolio! Not a book here and a book there! And a little sketchbook here and sketchbook there!’ They like to see it in an actual folder. Keep to the Saint Martins MA way because it’s nice and raw but go back to a bit of traditionalism because people like to see that. Then just go and see all agencies and apply everywhere you can. 

What do you think it is that makes Saint Martins special? For us it’s the school spirit, do you agree with that?

You live, thrive for that! Obviously I have no idea how it is at the new building, I was the last year of Charing Cross but for me Charing Cross was magical. So much history. It was a scary year and a half, we were always tense and scared but at the same time when I see my friends from the MA we always say we had a fucking great time even if we were scared. We had a fucking amazing time, made friends for life. 

With the MA maybe your work is not particularly amazing or aesthetically pleasing but it’s about that technique or process you’ve learnt. When i was doing my MA collection there were so many silhouettes that I was scared of doing but that’s what Louise really liked. She kept saying, ‘Don’t be scared, make this your own’. A-line skirts, in particular, I kept thinking, ‘Who makes an A-line skirt now?’ Now I do a fucking A-line skirt every season! 

See original article here: http://1granary.com/central-saint-martins-fashion/graduates/raffaele-ascione-interview/

CSM Twinsters: A Real Life Fairytale

It’s happened to all of us. You’re walking down the street or watching TV and you see someone who looks so similar to you or someone you know that, if you didn’t know better, you could almost be related. Well that’s what fashion design student, Anais Bordier, thought the first time she saw a youtube film featuring American actress Samantha Futerman. The resemblance was uncanny but she thought no more of it until she saw the actress again in 21 & Over. Finally able to find her full name, Anais did a bit of digging and found that they shared the same birthday and, just like Anais, Samantha had been adopted as a very young child.

A screenshot from the girls' first Skype session

Thrilled by the possibilities of her discovery, Anais reached out to Samantha on Facebook and after a few private messages the girls were sure they were biological twins. Samantha confirmed that she was born in South Korea on November 19, 1987 and was adopted at three months by a family in New Jersey. The girls say the similarities between them are endless, from their wicked sense of humour to their love of cheese (despite both having all forms of lactose intolerance), everything pointed towards a familial relationship. That was in February. One month later and the girls are desperate to meet, they Skype and chat through all the available social media platforms but, as anyone who has ever had a long-distance relationship will know, it just isn’t the same. 

Anais' first message to Samantha

To this end the girls have created a Kickstarter appeal to help them raise the $30,000 necessary for travel expenses and DNA tests to prove they are identical twins. With the help of some friends the girls will document every stage of this process, from the first message on Facebook all the way through to confirming their siblingship, providing a unique insight into an experience most of us could not even imagine. 

The girls have had an overwhelming response to their story, raising over $26,000 in the first week alone. If you would like to contribute to their cause or find out more about Anais and Samantha simply visit their Kickstarter page here: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1746892989/twinsters

Marques'Almedia AW13

London’s hottest denim whizz-kids, Martha Marques and Paulo Almeida, are back and thanks to the wonderful people over at NEWGEN and Topshop we were treated to their beautiful show in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House on Saturday. For Autumn/Winter 2013 the frayed hem was the order of the day. Never ones to shy away from double (or even triple) denim, entire looks came without a single neatly finished hem and a new answer was presented to the problem of lengthy trousers - simply rip a few inches on the inside leg. Rolling your jeans up is so passé darling...

The designers

This season the design duo also broadened their horizons. Although denim still remains the true love of their design lives, and came in a delectable shade of deep indigo, the pair demonstrated that their particular brand of nonchalant cool works just as well in silk, ponyskin and cotton. The undisputed stars of this collection were the voluminous elasticated waist trousers in saturated jewel tones. Given the frayed hem treatment and topped with super-luxe ponyskin jackets, they spoke of the kind of nonchalant, effortless cool that most of us can only dream of. Fresh and with an easy sophistication, there is a lot to love in this collection - expect to see it crowding the street chic galleries of fashion websites the world over in no time.

See more images here:http://1granary.com/central-saint-martins-fashion/graduates/marquesalmeida-aw-2013-2/

Thomas Tait AW13

Speed freaks get in line because Thomas Tait has the collection for you. Fittingly held in a car park near Trafalgar Square, Tait was quite clearly influenced by motor culture - of the fast kind. Created in a traditional winter palette, punctuated by go faster streaks of acid green and neon orange, these sporty garments are guaranteed to be on the wish list of every uber-cool urban dweller.

These are clothes for the very modern woman. Of the 25 looks in the show there were just four skirts, and these were not for the faint hearted, their conservative knee lengths negated by daring slits up both sides. Tait is one of London’s new generation of forward thinking designers and it comes as no surprise that his collection utilized the highest of high-tech fabrics, grounded by just a smattering of leather. The result was a number of pieces which looked as if they would be more at home on a ski slope or, indeed, in a racing car than on a runway. Covetable items of this kind included a teal puffa jacket which, with its arm pockets, waterproof fabric and zip detailing, appeared as functional as it is stylish. (There is also a jumpsuit version if anyone is actually considering it for skiing.) The unfortunate side effect of all this sports talk was the insistence of the stylist that socks and sandals would be a great idea. Lets hope this is ironic, I think we can all agree that no-one wants to see that becoming a trend.

The other big message of this show was layering. Seen in a different, more high brow guise in New York, Tait took the humble polo neck as the base for many of his looks and built on top or and around it. Tait also created gauzy transparent hoodies and trackpants worn over leggings and tight sports coats - one memorable look involved a white polo neck worn under a grey jersey body and white leggings with a puffa jacket and see-through trackpants worn over the top. Enough to keep anyone warm on a freezing February evening.

For 1Granary: http://1granary.com/central-saint-martins-fashion/graduates/thomas-tait-aw-2013/#prettyPhoto

See more images here: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2013RTW-TTAIT

Canali AW13

One of the more manly menswear collections to show at Milan this season, Elisabetta Canali gave men clothes that they could actually wear - especially if it is really cold. 

Via style.com

 A continuation of menswear’s fascination with vintage exploration, Canali presented a series of sharp, largely double-breasted suits in varying strengths of pinstripe, each with its own complementary overcoat.

Via style.com

Although some dandyism did creep in towards the end with velvet waistcoats, fur trims and jacquard trousers in various jewel tones, this was reined in by strong military accents and is not necessarily a fault anyway. The overall effect was pure style. This is a commercially viable collection that many a well dressed man would not sniff at wearing on the street.

Oliver Spencer AW13

Oliver Spencer’s collection falls well within the category of ‘wearable’. In fashion circles many cringe at this title but it is not necessarily a bad thing - we can’t all be making minidresses for men and in the end what’s the point if no-one ever wears it outside the catwalk? Besides Spencer’s collection is far from safe and boring. 

Created is tones of rust, maroon, charcoal and navy, it negotiates the fine line between tailoring and sportswear (take the inspired styling choice of rough rolled grey marl joggers paired with the shiniest of burgundy ankle boots as a case in point). 

Referencing Joseph Beuys’ ‘Felt Suit’ series, Spencer’s clothes accordingly appear softer and more comforting than many of fall’s collections - think a well dressed weekend rather than a day in court. Spencer’s collection may not come with the headline grabbing bells and whistles of his newer counterparts but then, quite frankly, he doesn’t need them.

Christopher Shannon AW13

‘There’s a fine line between art and mental disease’, said Shannon after showing his AW13 menswear collection. Quite an apt statement from someone who’s clothes were inspired by television documentaries about hoarders. 

Via style.com

 There is, however, no mental illness requirement to appreciate Shannon’s collection. Luxe sportswear at its best should appear sophisticated, wearable and stylish and Shannon hit the nail on the head with his layered looks in various shades of black, white and blue.

Via style.com

Expanding his repertoire to include leather for the first time, many of his pieces were patched together from various fabrics -  highlights were cosy looking sweaters and long-tail shirts with contrast sleeves and backs. Despite his references the resulting collection is clean and cohesive and, as demonstrated by his female models, just like a hoarder no-one is being left out.